Edinburgh Castle: Your Go-To Guide & My Honest Review (Plus How to Get There from Glasgow)

As planned—and as I mentioned in my previous post—we made our way to Edinburgh Castle today. As expected, on arrival, it was raining; we checked the weather forecast. But well, it is Scotland. We got wet, my partner and I, and of course our Historic Scotland card decided not to work. Thankfully, since the card had already been sent and we were physically at the location, they let us in. They did say we’d need a new card, and all of that admin talk—but we were just glad to be allowed through the gates.

We’d come with high expectations. I say that because most times when I’ve seen the castle, it’s been from the outside. And let’s be honest, the view from both the front and the back is stunning. I’ve always wanted to go inside, just to finally kill the curiosity.

But once inside... well, let’s say it didn’t quite meet the hopes we brought along.

Now, I don't think my partner would say it’s the best of all the castles we’ve visited in Scotland. Dunbarton Castle, for instance, has high climbs and open structures—it felt more adventurous, more layered. Edinburgh Castle, in comparison, felt more like a walk inside a large compound. The views were still impressive—especially of the city—but the castle interior itself didn't quite offer the kind of room-by-room exploration we were hoping for.

It was raining, the small museum spaces were packed, and though there were interesting exhibits about Scotland’s military history, they were hard to enjoy properly. You couldn’t linger or read anything easily because of the crowd. There was one truly beautiful building that looked like a church—it caught my eye—but it wasn’t open to the public. And yes, the views from the edges were breathtaking, but still, we were left wanting something more.

I’ll admit it—I had a bit of a childlike expectation. I thought we’d be exploring old rooms, learning how the castle was built, and walking through hidden corners. But it was mostly about walking outdoors, while trying to stay dry and dodge crowds. My partner kept a good attitude, but I must have looked rather funny—wet, wide-eyed, and clearly underwhelmed.

We didn’t take many photos, partly because the energy dipped. It felt like being promised a playground and then arriving to find only grownups walking around with maps. You’d have laughed if you’d seen my face.

Now, were we disappointed? I wouldn’t say that exactly. I’d say we just brought too much expectation.

Edinburgh Castle is the most talked about, the most visited—so of course we imagined it would be packed with wonder at every corner. But in all honesty, I preferred Dunbarton Castle. And mind you, it was also raining when we visited Dunbarton, but we didn’t mind—it felt worth it because we were exploring inside the actual structure.

The prison area in Edinburgh Castle was interesting, I’ll give it that. But it was crowded, and that sort of close-quarters atmosphere, especially in the rain, isn’t for me. Crowds, wet clothing, and confined spaces don’t exactly mix well—especially in these times when you can’t help but think about germs flying around.

Still, standing outside the castle, looking up at it—that view is something else. Beautiful, dramatic, iconic. I understand why it draws the crowds. But for us, seeing it from the outside may have been more memorable than going in.

Scotland has many castles worth exploring—some less known but just as rich in character. So, now you know how our day at Edinburgh Castle went; let me tell you about the historic aspect.

When you search for Edinburgh, the Castle is probably the first thing that springs. It's not just some old building; it's practically the beating heart of Scottish history, perched dramatically on Castle Rock which is why I said I felt the view from outside it was more satisfying for me. People have been hanging out on that rock since way back in the Iron Age.

Turns out, there's been a royal pad up there since the 11th century, under King Malcolm III. It stayed a royal residence until 1633, but then, like a lot of grand old places, its fancy residential days started to fade from the 15th century onwards. By the 17th century, it was mainly a military garrison. But don't worry, people eventually caught on to how incredibly important it was to Scotland's story, and they've been restoring it for the last century and a half.

This isn't just any old castle; it's worn so many hats. It's been a royal home, a place to store weapons (arsenal), a treasury, a national archive, even a mint, a prison and now a tourist attraction. Plus, it's where the Honours of Scotland (our crown jewels) call home. Being such a vital stronghold, it was right in the thick of things during so many historical dust-ups, from the Wars of Scottish Independence to the Jacobite rising of 1745. Research from 2014 found it's been besieged 26 times in its 1,100-year history. That makes it, supposedly, "the most besieged place in Great Britain and one of the most attacked in the world." Pretty intense, right?

Honestly, not much of the original castle from before the Lang Siege of 1573 is still standing, because artillery pretty much flattened the medieval defenses back then. But thankfully, we still have St Margaret's Chapel from the early 12th century (the oldest building in Edinburgh), the Royal Palace, and the early 16th-century Great Hall. The castle is also home to the Scottish National War Memorial and the National War Museum. Even the British Army still has a presence there, though it's mostly ceremonial and administrative now – it's the headquarters for the Royal Regiment of Scotland and the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards, and you can find their regimental museums there too, like I mentioned.

Now, if you've ever visited, you know it's buzzing with people. Historic Environment Scotland takes care of it, and it's Scotland's most visited paid tourist attraction (and the UK's second). In 2019, over 2.2 million people walked through its gates, and more than 70% of folks visiting Edinburgh make a point of seeing it. And, of course, if you've ever watched the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, you know the castle is the ultimate backdrop. It's truly an iconic symbol, not just for Edinburgh, but for all of Scotland.

Getting to Edinburgh Castle: Your Best Bets (and how I usually do it)

It's pretty central, so once you're in Edinburgh, it's fairly easy to reach.

From Glasgow (my usual starting point!):

• Train (My Top Pick): This is, hands down, the easiest and fastest way. Hop on a train from Glasgow Queen Street to Edinburgh Waverley. Services are super frequent (every 20 minutes, usually), and it takes about 50 minutes. From Waverley Station, you're practically there. Just follow the signs uphill towards the Royal Mile and the castle. It's a bit of a walk uphill, mind you, maybe 10-15 minutes, but you get cracking views as you climb. Tickets usually range from £13-35, depending on how far in advance you book and what class you go for.

• Bus: The Scottish Citylink 900 service runs frequently from Buchanan Bus Station in Glasgow to Princes Street in Edinburgh. This takes a bit longer, around 1 hour 18 minutes, and costs about £9-14. Princes Street is also very central, so again, a straightforward walk up to the castle from there.

• Driving: If you're set on driving, it's about 45-50 miles and takes around an hour, depending on traffic (and believe me, Edinburgh city traffic can be a nightmare). Parking near the castle is extremely limited and usually expensive. There are car parks like NCP Edinburgh Castle Terrace Car Park nearby, but even then, it's a walk up a hill. Honestly, driving into central Edinburgh is often more hassle than it's worth. Save yourself the stress and take the train!

• Taxi/Rideshare: You can, of course, taxi it from Glasgow, but we're talking £130-170, so unless you're rolling in it, probably not the most budget-friendly option. Rideshares like BlaBlaCar might be cheaper (£3-7), but you're relying on someone else's schedule.

Once you're in Edinburgh City Centre:

• Walking: If you're already in the city centre, especially around Princes Street or the Royal Mile, walking is your best bet. It's a steep climb up to the castle, so wear comfy shoes.

• Public Transport (Buses/Trams): Edinburgh has a decent bus network. Many buses stop on Princes Street, which is a short walk from the castle. The tram also stops on Princes Street.

Alright, let's get to the common questions people have when planning their visit to Edinburgh castle.

• What are the opening times?

  • Generally, the castle is open daily from 9:30 AM.

  • Closing times vary by season: 6 PM from April to September, and 5 PM from October to March.

  • Last entry is usually one hour before closing.

  • Crucially: It's CLOSED on December 25th and 26th. Always, always check the official Historic Environment Scotland website (edinburghcastle.scot) for the most up-to-date timings, especially around public holidays or if the weather's looking dodgy. They can close due to high winds or other operational reasons.

• How much are tickets and should I book in advance?

  • YES, book in advance. Seriously, I can't stress this enough. Not only is it usually a bit cheaper online, but it guarantees your entry. This place gets absolutely heaving. Imagine turning up, all excited, only to be told it's sold out for the next few hours. Nightmare.

  • Prices (these are approximate as they can change, always check the official site):

    • Adult (16-64yrs): Around £21.50 online, £24 at the gate.

    • Child (7-15yrs): Around £13.00 online, £14.50 at the gate.

    • Concessions (65yrs+ and unemployed): Around £17.00 online, £19.00 at the gate.

    • They also have family tickets, which can offer savings.

  • Historic Scotland Membership / Explorer Pass: If you're planning to visit a few historic sites in Scotland (and there are tons of amazing ones), a Historic Scotland membership or Explorer Pass can save you a bundle. You usually get free entry, but you still need to book a time slot online with your membership/pass. Don't forget that.

• How long should I spend at Edinburgh Castle?

  • The official recommendation is to set aside at least 2 hours to see the main attractions.

  • From my experience, if you want to properly read the exhibits, take in the views, maybe grab a coffee, and generally not feel rushed, 2 to 3 hours is a good estimate. If it's really crowded, or if you're like me and get a bit overwhelmed, you might zip through some parts quicker.

• What's the best time to visit to avoid crowds?

  • Your best bet for fewer crowds is to go early in the morning, right at opening (9:30 AM), especially on a weekday during the off-peak season (October to March).

  • Weekends are always busier, and July-August (peak season, Military Tattoo time) is absolutely rammed. If you must go on a weekend or during peak season, get there before 10 AM, maybe even before 9 AM to get in line for opening. The midday rush (11 AM to 2 PM) is when it's busiest. I do not recommend going on sunday like we did today.

• Is Edinburgh Castle accessible for wheelchairs or those with mobility issues?

  • This is a big one, and the short answer is: partially, but it's challenging.

  • The castle is built on a volcanic rock, with steep, cobbled paths throughout. Lots of steps, uneven surfaces.

  • They do have a mobility vehicle that can take visitors from the entrance up to Crown Square (the main central area), which is a huge help. You need to arrange this with staff at the entrance. It has specific dimensions it can accommodate, so check their access guide online if you have a larger wheelchair or scooter.

  • There are adapted toilets.

  • They offer manual wheelchairs on a first-come, first-served basis.

  • Blue Badge parking is available on the Esplanade, but it's limited and needs to be booked in advance.

  • My take: They've made efforts, but the nature of the site means it's inherently difficult. If mobility is a significant concern, definitely check the detailed access guide on the official website before you go.

• Are there food and drink facilities?

  • Yes, there are a few options. There's usually the Redcoat Café and The Tea Rooms for snacks, light meals, and drinks. Prices are, as you'd expect, a bit on the higher side. You can also bring your own snacks and water, which I often do.

• Can I bring my dog?

  • Generally, only assistance dogs are permitted inside the castle grounds and buildings. Your furry friend will likely have to stay at home or with someone else.

• What about the One O'Clock Gun?

  • This is a classic Edinburgh tradition. A field gun is fired at 1 PM every day, except Sundays, Christmas Day, and Good Friday. It's loud, so if you're sensitive to noise, be aware. It's fired from Mills Mount Battery.

If you noticed, There are very few photos of me; this is because our excitement dropped; don't laugh, I know, but yeah, enjoy these.

So, there you have it. All the practical bits you'll need to know. While my own experience inside was a mixed bag, it's undeniable that Edinburgh Castle is a massive piece of Scottish history, and for many, it's a must-see. Just go prepared, manage those expectations, and maybe, just maybe, you'll catch it on a less rainy, less crowded day than I did. Enjoy, no matter what.

Photo taken on July 6th 2025

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Scotland, Travel, United kingdom